Montreal’s food scene is full of bold, unforgettable flavors. But if you ask a local what defines the city’s culinary identity, chances are they’ll point you to a smoked meat sandwich. What started in immigrant kitchens has become a signature of the city, served in diners, delis, and white-tablecloth restaurants alike.

Smoked meat has changed over time. It had to. New tastes, faster kitchens, different customers. But in the heart of Montreal, especially in places that have done it for generations, some things never change.

This is the story of how smoked meat got here, how it’s evolved, and why it still matters.

From Romania to Rue Sainte-Catherine

Smoked meat didn’t begin in Montreal. It came with Eastern European Jewish immigrants, many of whom arrived from Romania, Hungary, and surrounding regions in the late 1800s. They brought a tradition called “pastrama”, a way of curing and preserving meat through salt, spice, smoke, and steam.

When these immigrants landed in Montreal, they adapted their methods to what was available. The brisket was local. The spice blends shifted slightly. The flavors got bolder. And what emerged was something new: Montreal-style smoked meat.

This wasn’t just a way to feed a family anymore. It was becoming a neighborhood staple, a deli fixture, and eventually, a cornerstone of the city’s food culture.

Also Read: The Rich History of Smoked Meat

The Traditional Method

In its original form, smoked meat is a labor of love. The brisket is cured in a dry rub for 10 to 14 days, a mix of cracked pepper, coriander, garlic, mustard seed, and sometimes a few secret ingredients known only to the deli’s owner.

After curing, the brisket is smoked slowly, then steamed until the meat softens but doesn’t fall apart. It’s then hand-sliced to order, allowing the carver to control the texture and respect the grain.

The cut matters. Some customers want it lean, others prefer medium-fat, and some won’t accept anything but the fattiest slice you’ve got. Every choice delivers a different mouthfeel, a different balance of richness and spice.

Places like Dunn’s Famous have kept this process alive since 1927. They still steam, slice, and serve with the same kind of care they always have. When you order a smoked meat sandwich there, it’s not an assembly line, it’s a ritual.

Want the real Montreal smoked meat experience? Skip the shortcuts and head to Dunn’s Famous, where they’ve been doing it right since 1927.

The Modern Shift

As smoked meat became more popular, it also became more flexible. Poutine with smoked meat? Everywhere. Smoked meat pizza? Common. Sliders, omelets, even salads, it shows up in more places now than ever before.

And with that rise came changes in preparation. Not every restaurant cures or smokes in-house. Some rely on suppliers, some slice by machine. That doesn’t always mean the product is bad, but it does mean the details can get lost.

Pre-cooked meats and faster turnarounds have made smoked meat more accessible. But the trade-off is often in the texture, the depth of flavor, and the control over cut. What used to take ten days can now take a few hours.

That’s the difference. The modern version feeds more people faster. The traditional one tells a story.

Smoked Meat As a Cultural Anchor

In Montreal, smoked meat is more than something you eat, it’s a cultural reference point. It reflects the Jewish roots of the neighborhood, the immigrant experience, and the way food builds identity.

Walk into a deli on a Saturday and you’ll see it: young people grabbing a late lunch, tourists chasing authenticity, and locals who’ve been coming for 30 years and still order the same thing.

That’s what smoked meat means here. It’s not just a sandwich, it’s a place, a memory, and a part of what makes the city feel like home.

There’s even talk of protecting it officially, giving Montreal-style smoked meat the same kind of designation that Champagne or Parmigiano-Reggiano has. A way to make sure it stays rooted in craft and tradition, even as it spreads across the globe.

Then vs Now: What’s Changed?

Smoked meat has evolved. That’s not a bad thing. It’s reached more people, inspired new dishes, and created room for creativity in the kitchen. But not every version is equal.

What’s stayed the same in the best place is the respect for process. The understanding that good food takes time. The decision to keep hand-slicing. The refusal to rush a recipe that works because it doesn’t cut corners.

If you’ve never tried the original, you should. Not the mass-produced version. The real thing, made by people who still know how to do it right.

Conclusion

Smoked meat isn’t just part of Montreal’s past. It’s part of its present and its future. Whether served in a classic sandwich or reimagined in something new, it’s a dish that connects people to the city’s history in the most delicious way possible.

If you want to taste that legacy, start where it’s still alive. Visit Dunn’s Famous. Ask for your cut the way you like it. And enjoy a tradition that’s lasted over 90 years, for one reason: it’s still that good.